Nipped out this morning with Ped and did the slab in the Scalp. Built up the landing with a few more branches. Get to the lip a few times and jumped off before just commiting to it. Probably easier to go for it than have loads of goes feeling it out, especially as I knew the moves from last time. Ped said I shook my way up the last moves but I was deep in the zone at that stage, even Ped's nonsensical encouragment ("go on, it's a nice day to do it") couldn't pierce the bubble. Let out a good roar once I got the good hold and let the adrenaline wash over me.
It's a cool problem, the moves are around 5+ but dicey for it, the landing isn't bad but all in all it feels pretty highball. Would feel a lot harder ground up.
Then went over to The Casbah which has cleaned up nicely. Ped got it pretty quick, so that makes it either 6a or 7c+, not sure which. Just watched Ayton's video and Banana Fingers rocked up onto his heel must try that. Great problem. Ped than failed to lank Alison Curtis.
Haa!Alison Curtis is a great one to lank alright... just commit to the wrist breaking dropknee or trad/French combo as it's sometimes known to reach the jug. Alternatively the right hoof and dyno-rockover work pretty well. Nice work on the slab!!
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