Thursday, April 28, 2011


Went for a walk up and around Turlough Hill and Glanekeera today. Weather was cracking with a decent cold breeze so it never got too hot. Walked up the road from Wicklow Gap to the top. I can confirm there is no bouldering in the quarry. Further north along the ridge are some outcrops and a few boulders, the boulders are ok there might be one or two decent problems.  The right arete on the below photo looks good and the landing is flat.

The north facing outcrop has a few easy slabby highballs on it and the one facing west has at least one nice project - the line a meter or two from the right arete has an easy start and a steep blank finish. Part of the reason I went there was to see if the ground would be dry after this drought we are experiencing. It was pretty dry but you would still need a tarp.

I went on to Lough Firrib and followed the tiny stream that flows north out of the lake. This is Upper Glanekeera, the valley is huge and packed with rock, mostly outcrops but some boulders. After around 5 minutes I turned a corner to see this steep and sharp fin of rock with some huge jugs on it. Amazing line. There was holds all the way, it didn't look that hard and I got it first proper go. Brilliant moves. As good a problem as any of it's grade (5 maybe). An hour from the car though.

I had savage blisters at this stage, I think my socks were too thin for my leather boots. I was planning to go all the way down the valley but decided to cut across the river to the ESB road. Saw some nice stuff that I will defo go back for.

The above boulder/outcrop was around 30 feet high. The bottom overhangs alot. There is a lack of holds but someone might work something out. The ground was pretty marshy even after this dry spell so it would be a pond most winters. The rock was pretty dirty as well but this is one serious boulder. If there were a few more holds it would be a contender for a Spectre type problem.

Its a huge valley and it would take more than a day to explore it.