Monday, June 28, 2010


Was in Derryrush today. Got some photos with the timer. My trousers got very wet on the walk in so I had a few goes without them. Then I just decided everything else had to go - except the chalk bag natch. Felt quite nice though you wouldn't want to do a chinmey in the buff.

Did the first 2/3rds of Highawatta about 5 times up and down for the camera, was so pumped that I had no energy for last move when I went for it after the photos were done. Have done it before think I just pulled harder and reached for the top. Its quite high. What grade is it? 5/5+?

Anyway Highawatta is a brilliant problem and the Chief is a great boulder. In general I find the rock in Derryrush very rough. A world away from the granite of Mall Hill.

Did a bit of exploring, found on quite large boulder but it didn't seem to have much potential on it. The large roof on the left started at around 6 feet. Its here off the road to Rossaveal. There is loads of rock in the area tons but I'm not sure how many decent boulderers there is. If anyone had a spare week to walk around a bog I'm sure they would find some good stuff.

Friday, June 25, 2010


I think everyone is agreed that the first ascentist of a problems has earned the right to name the problem. Even if sometimes the names are shit and irksome and painful to say out loud.

Boulder are often named sometimes after a problem on them or the area they are in or sometimes its something quite random - like Big Jim.

But what about areas who gets to name them? If the whole point of naming is too identify the place then there is usually a suitable name already in existance. If you think of any bouldering area in Ireland this is the case.So its usually just a matter of picking the right one.

Cloghogue/Ben's Font in Wicklow was nearly/still is an exception to this. There is a thread about this on the message board but I don't think there is any point rediscussing it.

Obviously Ayton's Cave got me thinking about this issue. What do people think about the issue in general and in specific, please post up.


Was checking out around Gurteen near Roundstone in Galway today. Very sunny and nice. Only did a small bit of bouldering as the child started complaining. Found one very nice but low roof that I hadn't seen on previous visits. The holds were lovely on it. Some powerful low starts, slaps to the slopey lip and tricky mantles.

There isn't much bouldering here but there is some good soloing and traversing above the water. Plus its a very nice spot.

These 2 boulders aren't really of height but they are climbable with very nice rock so you might be tempted. Nice setting as well.

Friday, June 18, 2010

Delph Valley

Was checking out Delphi Valley on last Saturday (12th). I only got to go to the River Boulder which is only a minute or two from the Center but the lads got to Third Rock from the Bog which looks great and well worth a visit. The rock- incredably solid cobble sandstone - in the valley is brilliant and its another place that would be well worth an exlore...

North Connemara

Went to check out the Leenane Boulders, Prehistoric Boulder and Jim's Nook yesterday. Leenane is ok, some really nice rock but not many problems. There is however some boulders/outcrops further up the hillside that might be worth a look.

 Beside the river near Jim's Nook are some outcrops, some of which have been bouldered already, I took this photo on the way out, would of liked to check out the very steep walls in the middle. They are definitely worth a look.

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Another ball dropped

The good news is Dave Ayton has found a rather nice looking bouldering cave in Howth.
The bad news is I checked it out in the winter of 2003 when exploring around Howth and never went back.

This isn't the first time this has happened. Last time was Stonecutter's Glen.

There is loads of info on Dave's blog including directions and a topo. Dublin has badly needed an equivelent of Parisella's Cave in North Wales ie. somewhere steep, with lots of problems and linkups, that stays pretty dry in wet weather. On the last point I'm not sure how condition dependant this cave is when I visited, granted it was January, the cove was pretty damp with seepage.

The weird thing is that last night, for the first time in years, I looked at the Howth photos I took on that trip.

Anyway fair play to Dave, it looks like a great spot.