Thursday, July 29, 2010

Guide preview - Glenmalure

I have uploaded a 4 page preview of the Glenmalure section of the guide. Two reasons. To give people a chance to comment on how it looks and to encourage people to check out the bouldering in Glenmalure. If anyone does get out there and does anything new or gets any good photos I would be very eager for them to get in touch.

glenmalure.pdf 1.2MB

NOTE: The above is 90% finished, I plan on retaking some of the photos (Ballinafunshogue, Sé's Boulder and the one of Diarmuid).

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Fraughan Glen and Art's Lough

Went to Glenmalure yesterday to meet Lee from Betaguides and his wife. On the drive down there was a few showers but the day turned out to be perfect summer bouldering conditions, sunny, very windy and dry. We first checkout Fraughan Rock. Lee repeated John's problem on the backside. Looks great slopey moves. (John did you submit this to the database?), Lee reckoned around 6b manteling the leftside of the dish. We then spent a good while working out the moves on a line just to the right of Cavailer Attitude. Lee dispatched this as well. Brilliant move from a sitstart on undercuts to the big just then up the slab using the sidepulls. Very technical and sequency, 6b/6c?
There was millions of massive Fraughan Berries around, I have never see so many.

We then headed up to Art's Lough. The walk looks worse than it is, it only takes around 15mins. We worked the moves on the steep problem on the lakesend of Ciaran's Boulder which Lee dispatched in short order. 6c+ maybe with quite a fingery crux at the start. Landing is a bit awkward but not too dangerous. Lastly we went up to the high plateau above (which is called Foxburrow in the brilliant EastWest map). Lee flashed the slopey arete and the slab we tried last time and was very impressed by the large rock which I think we will call White Elelephant. There is a lot more quality bouldering to be done in this area if you are prepared to walk.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Ayton's Cave update

John Howard has cleaned up some of the projects in the Cave, he posted details on the new problem database - thanks John.

Seeing as pretty much every problem/link goes through Caroline's Traverse and Loco Total would people care to comment on their grades. The original grades given by Dave and Caroline were V4/5 and V8 which translates to 6b/6c and 7b (Dave has it at 7c at The problems are the cave are very different from granite cliimbing and very stamina dependant so its not easy to say but I would think CT is about 6b and LT around 7a/7a+? What do people think?
Delirium7BDublinHowthAyton's CaveSit start at the obvious chalked right hand sidepull at the back of the cave, squeeze and heelhook your way along the hanging tufa to reach the start of loco (-destroyer extension ~6c/7a), and finish as for loco totalJohn HowardJune 2010
Solstice7BDublinHowthAyton's CaveClimb loco total to the obvious halfway jug before heading directly through the blank looking roof to the crack, finishing at the lip. A beautiful series of moves involving an undercling, incut crimps and intricate footworkJohn HowardJune 2010
Eon7B+DublinHowthAyton's CaveThe link-up of the destroyer extension into solstice, amazing, get on it!John HowardJuly 2010
Eclipse7A+DublinHowthAyton's CaveA variant to solstice moving left from the jug to a right-hand sidepull/pinch before making a long move to a deep juggy slot(often wet), the roof crack can be gained from this, finish at the lipJohn HowardJuly 2010

Holiday Boulders, Glendo

Was up at the Holiday Boulders in Glendo yesterday. Very nice up there and a good option to potentially escape the midge. I hadn't been up there for years but the groove on the holiday boulder had stuck in my mind. Its very impressive looks like it will be hard and super technical. Hugh looked a bit lowball but with nice holds. The problem to the left and right of the groove are pretty decent. The groove is the main event though. Has anyone been up there and repeated any of the problems?

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Overview Maps

Which is better?
EDIT I have added a third image that combines elements of both the other two.

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Ayton's Cave

Finally paid a visit to the cave on Friday. Arrived at 10.30, low tide was at 10 according to Howth Yacht Club. Tim and I were cave virgins and Barry was our guide being a veteran of 4 visits. When we arrived Barry pronounced it drier than he has seen it before, the key probably was that the wind was blowing directly into the cave. We quickly got our shoes on and got climbing. The cave is everything I hoped it would be. Super steep, burely, technical, sequency climbing. Full body workout.

There are some easier more veritcal problems to be done on the cove passed on the walk in. There was chalk on the overhanging side of the little stack as well. Looked like a nice little traverse.

The walk in felt longer than I expected, apparently some people approached from the other direction, is that quicker?

The walk in down the steps is very straight forward. The climb that is nessacary if you stay til the tide has blocked the return by the steps is ok. I was a bit worried about loose rock and I wouldn't face it in high wind with a large pad. Would it be an idea to put in a stake and a heavy rope to batman down the slabby wall of choss? Would be discrete and we could stash the rope over the wall.

It would be great if people could report on the new problem database if they have done any new problems/links in the cave?

A large tarp would be very handy to keep your shoes sand free. Also a tea towel for drying holds.

Also Barry mentioned that his Da knew some myth about a cave in the area. Did you ask him about it Barry?