Wednesday, July 27, 2011


The plan was to go into the North Prision so Lee could show me around but we where told "under no circumstances" could that happen. Instead we drove around Lug to Glenmalure. The day which had been looking like rain got warmer and sunnier and stiller. Tried everything on the excellent Ballinafushogue Boulder but were repelled by hot rock and midge. Great boulder, plenty of climbing on it.

We then headed further down the road and scrambled up the north side of the hill to check out a roof we spotted. It turned out very nice. Steep and about 9foot to the first lip. Lee did 2 problems on it. Both with fairly involved topouts. There is an amazing project - similar but much better than Switch in The Scalp - to be done. Crimp, very steep, body tension finished with a slap to the slopey lip (you can see the line it take up the wall beside Lee's left foot).

There is more to be done up here.  This only doing new stuff thing is going pretty well.


  1. Wow! That project looks amazing Dave, nice one, psyched to explore around glenmalure when the weather cools down a bit

  2. That roof was pretty perfect, it's Definetly worth a scout on the upper hills, I've just had one fantastic week in Wicklow, exploring, will be back for sure, it's got the 'Wow' factor!

  3. More from Lee's trip here

  4. I've not been up that side of the valley yet, looks quality. Did ye do any more up around Art's Lough? Weathers looking a bit grim for my plans to do routes at Fair Head/Donegal this weekend, so could be on for a slog up there to explore on Saturday if you fancy it?

  5. Yep it's good. I went to Art's Lough a few times last summer. Was more concentrating on Foxburrow - the higher cluster - which I came to the conclusion has the big fella which is great and some potential on the SE slopes ever higher up. Which at 650m must be some of the highest bouldering in Ireland?

    Would be keen on a mission up there Paul. Send us an email I think I'm free Saturday.