Monday, September 26, 2011


Just back from a week in Font. Climbed 6 days out of 7, paced myself well and concentraded on the blues. Went to a mix of areas I hadn't been before and the old reliables. Bois Rond and Buthiers were great and I would go back. Realised that Cuiver is the greatest bouldering area in the world. I had always liked it but this time it blew my mind. The rock is very good even for Font, lots of great texture slopers and not too much grattons or marble. Also its huge.

I finally did the Blue Number 8 which I have been trying for years - 6 at least. Its an flared slot/chimney just left of Charcutiere. Now if you haven't tried it you may think, blue how hard can it be. If you have you know. Success required lots of palming and knee jamming. By the time I got to the top I was breathing hard and seeing stars. Needed a bit of a rest on top before I came down. Its a great problem, probably not a soft tick for Font 4 though. I'd suspect the 8a to the left gets more ascents.

The beta is something like this. LF jam in back, RH palm, step up to sloper on L for LH, turn RH to palm. Push hips in and get a knee jam with L knee. RH to high sloper on R. Wingle alternativing knee jams until to can get a good chicken wing for L arm. Sqeeze into a more conventional chimney postition and get heel toe jam for RF. From then on its a pretty straighforward squeeze chimney.

As is my tradition I aways start in Cuivier on blue number 1, Les Sans des Mains. Beautiful slab problem. Took me a few tries and a change to shoes to crack it. It was so good I had to do it thrice. So good.

Went to a huge boulder in Elepant called Dalle รก Poly. Huge overhanging face riddled with juggy pockets. The black number 40 which is supposed to be 4 goes up the left side. I got to within an inch of the last jug but was a little pumped to go for it. Its high. Worth a visit.


  1. Nice one Dave. We went to Bois Rond on the first day of our trip last Jan/Feb. Its a cool little place away from the crowds. Haven't been to Buthiers - will try that the next time. Roche aux Sabots was probably the highlight of our trip.

  2. Nice one, sounds like you had a good trip. That chimney looks fun. If you like that you should try the chimney thing in Biker Cove at wicklow head.

  3. Hey Dave, sounds like a cool trip, I did that highball pockety boulder straight up the middle of the face years ago, it's about 30ft high, scared the bejaysus outta me !! It was going by the name Swiss Cheese, lovely area, good fun

  4. Nice, how was the heat?
    Cuvier never fails to impress if you can overlook the rubbish and noise that is. Buthiers is great like a big maize in places!

  5. It was pretty ok Kev. Earlyish in the morning there was a slight chill and shaded areas never got too hot. Good time to go for compromise between climbing temps and family temps.

  6. Nice one Dave! I'm psyched for the next trip now!! Bois Rand was cool indeed - and as Steve said, nice, quiet and shaded climbing.

    6 out of 7 days is good going too!!!

    ps: I have your grill tray!

  7. I will get the grill tray from you next time I see you so carry it everywhere with you in case I bump into you.