Thursday, January 19, 2012

Unclimbed projects

Following on from article from 2004 listing some of the best projects in Wicklow here is a list of a few worthwhile unclimbed lines. All of the below are good lines on nice rock, there are no SS or variations or extensions. They are King Lines if you will.  I know of more some that I'm seflishly hoarding from myself (they easy ones), so this list isn't exhaustive.

 1. Split boulder, Electric Mountain

 This line is on the hillside to the left of the Electric Mountain forest. There is a big buttress split vertically by a fared chimney. The first move is a big throw from some small edges to the big slopey ledge and then a highball finish. There is an easier project to the right as well.

2. Flicking the Bean boulder, Mall Hill

The slopey arete on the Flicking the Bean boulder isn't probably that hard. The landing is awkward as it slopes away but there are plenty of branches to build a level platform. Might be a sit start, on the day that photo was taken I pulled a flake off from below the nose on the right, it was rotten and very loose so was no lose.

3 Art's Boulder arete, near Glanekeera

High, hard and remote. Great line though.

4. Line right of Wow Prow, Glenmac

The Wow Prow is the arete in the middle. The other line is the right arete. Very steep very slopey compression from a SS. Very much the modern style. There is a line of seepage in the middle of the face that might interfere.

5. Dyno right of Boat 66, Glenmac

Dyno up the middle of the face. Starts on a shit hold and goes along way to the lip to a good jug I think. Rocky landing. Borderline impossible ie. very hard I think.

6. Nemesis Boulder right arete, Glenmac

Just noticed this one when going through my photos. Looks like hard clamping up the steep nose. Mightn't be that impressive in person.

7. Roof below crag, Lough Dan

Long roof traverse. Maybe 15m long. Would stay dryish in the rain. Lovely rock, great holds. Not even that hard. Why am I mentioning this one?

8.  White Elephant, Glenamlure

High. Very blank arete. Oh and at least 1.5 hours from the road. Good luck with that.

9. Steep side of Gullyblock

Left arete. Steep. Might be a few holds on the face.

10. Forest boulder, Mall Hill

Deep in the forest above and left of Living the Dream is a nice rounded boulder. The centre of the face doesn't look like much in the crappy photo but it is beautiful. A few decent holds to start and then some very slopey moves on the bald pate. Beautiful. Did I mention the dappled light?

Well that's all I can think of for the moment. If you know of anything else worth mentioning leave a comment. Note nothing in Glendo.

1 comment:

  1. Compression prow left of Shadow in Lough Dan.

    Incredible slopey face on that lone boulder up from the car park above the glenmacnass waterfall. Very good looking sitstart. Will be tres bonne.

    This lovely bit of slopeyness on Camaderry (Pity about the awkward spiky block under the SS):

    Theres more, but those are the quality ones IMO