Monday, September 3, 2012

Glendo - real climbing

Anyone know what route this is? Fanfare maybe.

Climbed on the main crag in Glendo for the first time on Saturday. I had only done a few single pitches on Acorn Buttress prior. Lovely breezy day, warm even in our shirt sleeves. Clancy and I did three routes, all multi starred classics.

Quartz Gully HS
Cracks on the Garden of Eden VS
Deirdre VS

We started QG a little low and I led the first two pitches, Clancy took the last. Crux is cool, lovely exposure, easy for 4b I feel. Plenty of stuck gear as well, like a sport route.

Someone had done a dump below the start of Cracks, Clancy got the first pitch and laybacked up the corner. I used holds on the right which felt a lot easier. I didn't bother going left to the hand crack at the start of p2 went straight up past the loose flake. Top section is brilliant steep, good handholds all the way but lacking feet in places, I got pumped and had to move out left for a shakeout which was weak, should of just pushed on but I don't see why I would have any stamina.

Clancy led the hard pitch of Deirdre, I was still pumped and found it tricky seconding. I led the top pitch, very easy, didn't place any gear due to lack to massive cams.

I'm not sure why a lot of the routes are divided into so many pitches, I understand why this was done back in the day but it doesn't make any sense to describe them thus now. All three routes we did could of been done in a single pitch with a 60m rope if one was very careful about extending runners.

There was loads of people out bouldering and it was funny to walk down from the crag and slag them. I've been on the receiving end many a time. It was great to climb on the crag, the rock is incredible and it's such a great setting.


  1. I'm pretty sure the photo is the finishing moves of Prelude-Nightmare. The angle the photo is taken from is slightly unusual.

  2. I think its one of the old upper cliff routes, seen the photo somewhere before and it had the name with it

    Stephen Y

  3. The photo is taken from the ledge at the top of the second pitch of Quartz Gully. It's closer then that Stephen, it's a very similar shot to the cover of the previous edition of the Wicklow guide.

  4. Haa haa! It's like the feckin Twilight Zone these days - I'm sure you were in a group of Boulderers circa 2000 shouting "trad'er!" at us stomping up to the main crag once upon a time :) Great stuff Dave... keep exploring!

  5. What a spot! Glad to hear you've given up that bouldering shite! I think guidebook pitches are only there for historical reasons in some cases (apart from Dalkey guide - Paradise Loast was originally 3 pitches - ridiculous!). I always try run out as much rope as is comfortably possible. Nice post, keep them coming!

  6. I assume you have been Richard? By no means given up the bouldering, looking forward to getting back to it especially as it there's a nip in the air.
    I was using the older Wicklow guide and I found it not very helpful. Historical reasons?! might as well grade them for hemp rope and hobnail boot ascents. I just go the 1983 select guide and it's beautiful, nearly every single route in the Dalkey section is a grade less then it's currently given...

    1. Ha! When men were men. In a way the current grades are given for hemp rope and boots - how many people nowadays would think Paradise Lost is actually Very Difficult? I've had two amazing trips to Glendo main crag to tick all the classics. I'm hoping I can squeeze in another trip this year before the year is out. If not I might have to try that bouldering thing...
      If you'd prefer the newer guide I'd be happy to buy the old one from you (with Spéirbhean on cover is it?). I find the new one too bulky for multi-pitch.

  7. Very difficult or the grade VD? I think the crux of PL is fair at VD.

    I don't own the new guide and don't think I could ever pay for that new one. You don't have any lenes for sale, I broke the autofocus on my 18-55?

  8. No sorry. I told a friend about your message on as I thought he might have one but apparently not. I got a new one on eBay for under €80 a few years back.

    I think PL is V.Diff (the grade), but I think most people (maybe even first timers) wouldn't regard it as actually being very difficult in the true meaning of the words. Maybe in hobnail boots and a hemp rope though.

  9. Thanks I saw some on Donedeal as well. PL was my first route in the quarry when I was 11. I was doing an adventure course, and for some reason one of the instructors advised me to wear my hiking boots. Think I got up it ok, no wonder it's so polished.