Saturday, December 1, 2012
Cold, sunny day = Mall hill. I have had my eye on the big slab on the Paris Beavais boulder so I brough a rope to give it a clean. In my minds eye it's the irish version of the Angel's Share. Which might be overstating it a little. The sun was just leaving it as I arrive via a horrific bushwack. The trees have grown so much since we first came their in 2003. The left hand crag is almost compeletly eneveloped in 12foot trees.
A good clean and it was ready to try on the rope. It came together pretty easily, probably about 5+ but highly tenious. Smearing and palming. Including my favourite move which is a double palm where you start gastoning and then swap to normal - hard to describe.
I hadn't tried the start for ages and it took a while to figure it out. The guide saids 6b+ but it's more like 5+/6a if you come at it from the right.
Will have to go back with a spotter to do it. It will be scary it's very smeary and 20foot high. Similar in style to Every given Sunday in The Scalp.
Met fellow blogger, Diamian, at the Living the Dream boulder, to my surprise. Tried the problem to the left, which I found desperate. He was getting very close, just need to get the topout sorted.