Was planning to head to Portrane yesterday but the morning was a bit dank so we missed the tide window. Went to Cloghoge in the afternoon. Was very sunny with a strong breeze so quite pleasant summer bouldering conditions. I haven't been climbing much lately but I found everything much harder than usual and some of the grades in the latest version of the guide are severe sandbags - I think.
Lotto - the left corner of the Hobbition wall is nails. Anyone done it?
The SS problem on the LHS of the left of the Two Towers problems
The right handcrack line on the right of the Two Towers problem. So scary crux right at the top.
The problem left of Exfoliator is impossible, I could of sworn I did this before but couldn't get close yesterday. Any one have any beta for these problems?
Its a very nice spot though. Had a swim in one of the pools. September would be the prefect time for a visit. Warm water, no ferns, nuts.
Lotto: That one is Kev Coop's, but can't remember what he actually called it. Scary but good.
ReplyDeleteProblem left of Exfoliator is a typical reta if I remember well. Tricky and classical fontish.
Problem right of Exfoliator is a jug campusing, can be extended with a traverse from far right.
Come out and play start on the corner arete, a hand on each side. Rock up to reach a sidepull on the left side. Then there a bit of sequency footwork with potential for skin chopping (especially my right hand knucles). Then comes the crux: reach high for a shitty crystal right hand on the right slabby side. If you can hold it the rest gets easier.
Hope this helps.
Pierre.